Avery Top

A nice classic top, which works well both tucked in or not (note that there is separate drawing for the tucked in version, which lets you preview it that way). For this pattern, I used the default parameters and ease settings, and sewed it up straight off the printed pattern (with a minor adjustment of the back armhole curve which I smoothed by a couple of millimeters, as it came out slightly angular; the instructions suggest this may happen for some figures). Once the top was complete and I could try it on, I did however shorten it a bit.

The fit seems good to me, although my fabric (silk shantung) is maybe a bit stiff. A fabric with more drape would probably give a smoother result. I do not have any gaping however, and the neckline and armholes lie smoothly against my body.

In terms of construction, I had no major issues. The pattern is well drafted, it goes together well, and the instructions are clear and well illustrated. The only tricky parts are the contrast bands, as there are pretty steep curves involved. Note that these curves might be specific to the pattern drafted for my shape and measurements, they might be totally different for another person. A nice thing is that you only close the side seams after having mostly completed the band attachment, so everything is still flat and accessible at that point.

I made one design change: the pattern calls for a zipper down the center back, and since I had no white zipper in my stash, I decided to add a contrast band down center front and back. The band was made the same width as the contrast neck band, and simply edge stitched to the center front and back pieces. Aside from working well with my black zipper, I quite like the look.

I can imagine many other variations of this top, and will certainly sew it again!

Based on my sloper (see review) I made some changes to my outline. Based on the new outline I made the Avery top. I made a muslin for two reasons:
-I wanted to check the fit
-To check if the neckline was not too high, and my bra not exposed.

For drafting the pattern I moved the side seam 4 cm to straighten it. I lengthend the top to 10cm from hip to hem, and chose a wearing ease of 2,5 cm for bust/ waist, and 1,27 for hip. The reduced wearing ease for the hip was based on the results from my sloper.

Now for the result. The pattern was drafted well, all pieces fit together nicely. The instructions were clear except for the facing/ bands. I read this passage multiple times, and in the end did not construct it correctly. To me it was unclear what the inner seam allowances where, and when the pattern piece became a facing or when a band??? So as a result my facings are not slip stitched, but top stitched to keep them in place.

Some of the currves have quite a small radius, making inserting them challenging. I put in a much shorter zipper than instructed, as that is what I had in my stash. I chose a contras color for the band to check if I could insert them neatly. I am happy with the look of the contrasting bands.

The fit. hmmmm in hind sight I should have gone with more wearing ease for the hips, especially since I am wearing shorts underneath. There are drag lines towards my lower tummy, and at the small of my back. Lesson for next time. Eventhough I increased the wearing ease of the bust and the waist compared to the sloper, (2,5 cm instead of 1,27) it feels just as tight as the sloper. Some draglines are visible at my back, and under my bust. So I need to increase the wearing ease more.

Dislikes:
-neck/arm bands stand away from my body. Might have been due to handeling of the fabric, but I did interface them. I interfaced the bands till a few millimeters outside the seamline.
- Bra is visible

Like:
- neckline looks good. I was expecting ...