What did the fall 2020 every style fit update include?

We updated all our fit algorithms in the fall of 2020 and revised all our previous patterns to the new fit. We now believe we can achieve great fit for 95% of all women and teenage girls. (See this post if you are wondering if you are in the 95%; https://sewfitography.com/blogs/news/will-fitography-patterns-fit-you.) We don't expect to have to do any major fit adjustment in the future, but we will of course, if customer feedback suggests that we need to. Below is a description of the changes.

All patterns now have a movable waist level. This is so you can have different waist levels for pants and dresses.

The waist shape of stand-alone skirts (not attached to a bodice) is much improved allowing the skirt to hang properly now.

The sloper truing at the waist much better and shouldn’t give drag lines from the bust apex to the side seam waist. This is also helped by an improved algorithm for finding the bust dart intake.

The front bodice waist dart on tops and dresses now has some underbust shaping because that has shown to give a better fit, especially on those with larger busts.

Waist darts were extended all the way to hem on non-princess seam tops and dresses to allow the dresses to fit closer to your body at the waist. Yours may not extended all the way depending on your figure. This affects Daisy, Maddy and Emily and all non-princess, non-waist seam dresses going forward. 

Princess seams (including waist darts on longer styles) and side seams have much improved curved shape. They were sort of angular before.

In order to fit a lot of different body types, the previous back bodice bust level angled up at the sides, making the back waist dart wider than necessary on some figures. This has been changed to have a horizontal back bust level. This has also allowed for a shorter back bodice waist dart.

A lot of tops and dresses were too big in bust circumference before. That has been fixed.

All buttons on tops and dresses have a button placed at your apex level. This may cause the button placement to extend past the hem on some figures. If it does, just ignore those extra buttons.

The placement of the shoulder seam at the neck has been changed since it was too far back on a lot of body types.

I created a better algorithm for finding the correct shoulder angle and shoulder dart intake. The shoulder dart is what keeps your back armhole from gaping. The Fitography back shoulder dart will be wider than most standard pattern drafts if you have sloped shoulders or a built up trapezius, an upper back that curves out, forward shoulders or a narrow armhole compared to your chest.

The sleeve cap shape is much more reliable now even when users don’t place their armhole markings correctly on the front and back views. The sleeve cap also shouldn’t give those funky offshoots of the seam allowance, but if it does there is a quick fix listed in the new sewing instructions. The sleeve length was also not so reliable before, now it is much better.

There is now separate front and back armhole ease for better control of the armhole ease and bust and shoulder dart intakes.

All skirts and pants have contoured waistbands since these generally fit better than straight waistbands.

All skirts and pants adjust from 0 to 2 darts per panel depending on your figure and if your dart intake is under/over a certain amount.

There is now a better pant fit algorithm in general. Better at finding crotch width, rise angle and crotch length. Also better at keeping leg widths similar to what the leg width is when you virtually try on the style.

Please continue to give feedback so we can keep making improvements!

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