We added 2 new features to all of our sleeves. We added Sleeve Wearing Ease; this was previously half the Bust Wearing Ease, but now we made it separate. We also added sleeve ease indicator dots so you can control the amount of cap ease. Both additions are explained below.
When Fitography drafts a sleeve pattern for you it measures for the following on the sleeve drawing placed on your body outline:
1. Sleeve circumference at bottom of armhole (measures front and back separately)
2. Sleeve cap height
3. Sleeve upper cap width (measures front and back separately)
4. Sleeve lower armhole width (measures front and back separately)
5. Sleeve length from biceps to elbow
6. Sleeve length from elbow to wrist
7. Sleeve elbow circumference
8. Sleeve wrist circumference
These measurements assure that the sleeve will fit your unique shape, but won’t always guarantee that the sleeve will be the standard shape you are accustom too. If you have a backwards tilting arm (as shown in the image below), or a prominent front bone, the cap may look “backwards” from what you are used to seeing, but it will fit you better than a conventional sleeve because it is drafted specifically for you.
Fitography plots the cap using arcs. Sometimes the arcs don’t always fit together nicely, especially at the front of the sleeve cap. Sometimes there will be a small point that you can just shave off.
Because the sleeve is based on the measurements listed above for fit, it doesn’t always result in the desired amount of ease. On some body types there may even be negative ease. Because of this we added a Sleeve Wearing Ease parameter. This will increase the sleeve circumference the ease amount at the biceps elbow and wrist (on cuffed styles it will only increase at the biceps to 0 at the wrist). It will also increase the upper cap width some and the sleeve cap height slightly.
In addition we added some sleeve cap ease indicators so you can see how much ease there is before printing your pattern. These are dots near the top sleeve notch. The distance between these 2 dots will tell you how much ease there is in the cap. The back dot is solid and the front dot is hollow and these match the dots at the sleeve notches. You want to make sure all the solid dots are on one side of the top notch, and all the hollow dots are on the other side. If the sleeve indicator dots switch places, that means you have negative ease and you need to increase the Sleeve Wearing Ease or reduce the Arm Angle.